A sealed bottle of Baroque Original sits on a collector’s shelf next to its 2018 remake. One is a deep, almost blackened indigo. The other is a translucent violet that catches light like stained glass. The difference is not just color. It is chemistry, intention, and the entire history of a fragrance that was never meant to survive its decade.
Baroque Original vs Remake refers to the 2006 release of Baroque (a dark, resinous perfume oil by an independent perfumer) and its 2018 reformulation. The original used a now-banned natural ingredient (oakmoss absolute at 12% concentration) and a synthetic musk compound (Galaxolide 50) that the remake replaced with a different musk base (Ethylene Brassylate) and a reduced oakmoss percentage (4%). The remake is not a clone. It is a separate object.
Where Did the Original Baroque Come From?
The original Baroque launched in November 2006 from a one-person perfumery in Portland, Oregon. The perfumer, who worked under the name “Nocturne Alchemy,” had been blending oils since 2003 for a small mailing list of customers. Baroque was their third commercial release.
The formula was simple by modern standards. Seven ingredients: bergamot FCF (furanocoumarin-free), labdanum absolute from Cistus ladaniferus, oakmoss absolute (Evernia prunastri), vanilla CO2 extract, benzoin Siam resinoid, ambergris tincture (synthetic, since 2004), and Galaxolide 50. The oakmoss came from a single harvest in the Massif Central, France, purchased through a now-defunct supplier called L’Essence et Nature.
The original run was 500 bottles. Each bottle was hand-labeled with a date and number. The first 100 went to subscribers. The rest sold through a now-archived website over six months. By 2008, the perfumer had discontinued it, citing the rising cost of oakmoss absolute after EU regulations restricted its use in cosmetics (Regulation EC No 1223/2009, which took full effect in 2010 but had been anticipated since 2007).
That regulation is the hinge. The original Baroque was made before the restriction. The remake was made after it.
Why the Remake Exists at All
The remake was announced in March 2018, ten years after the original had become a collector’s item with bottles trading on secondary markets for 300 to 500 dollars. The perfumer stated publicly that they had been asked “at least once a week” since 2012 to bring it back.
They also stated something else: the original formula could not be reproduced. The oakmoss supplier had closed. The Galaxolide 50 batch they had used was no longer manufactured. The ambergris tincture had been made from a specific synthetic base that had since been reformulated by its own manufacturer.
The remake was not a reissue. It was a new composition that aimed at the same effect through different materials. The perfumer described it as “a translation, not a copy.”
The remake launched in September 2018. Initial batch: 1000 bottles. It sold out in three weeks. A second batch of 500 followed in December 2018. As of 2024, the remake remains in production in small batches, though the perfumer has stated that the oakmoss supply is “precarious” and that future batches may require further adjustment.
What the Two Smell Like, Side by Side
The original opens with a sharp, almost medicinal bergamot that lasts about twenty minutes. Then the oakmoss takes over: earthy, slightly fungal, with a bitterness that sits at the back of the throat. The labdanum is barely noticeable at first. It emerges after an hour as a warm, leathery base that carries the vanilla and benzoin. The Galaxolide 50 gives it a clean, slightly metallic sheen on the skin, like old silver.
The remake opens with a softer bergamot, almost sweet. The oakmoss is present but muted, more like damp soil than forest floor. The labdanum is stronger from the start, pushing forward a resinous sweetness that the original kept hidden. The vanilla is more prominent. The benzoin is less. The Ethylene Brassylate musk is warmer and creamier than the Galaxolide 50, with none of the metallic edge.
The most noticeable difference is longevity. The original lasted eight to ten hours on skin. The remake lasts four to six. This is not a quality issue. The Ethylene Brassylate is less tenacious than Galaxolide 50, and the reduced oakmoss means fewer fixative compounds.
What the Ingredients Tell Us
The ingredient list reveals the full story.
Original (2006): Alcohol denat., Parfum (fragrance), Aqua (water), Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) extract, Cistus ladaniferus (labdanum) resin, Vanilla planifolia (vanilla) CO2 extract, Styrax benzoin (benzoin) resinoid, Ambergris (synthetic), Galaxolide, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin.
Remake (2018): Alcohol denat., Parfum (fragrance), Aqua (water), Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) extract, Cistus ladaniferus (labdanum) resin, Vanilla planifolia (vanilla) CO2 extract, Styrax benzoin (benzoin) resinoid, Ambergris (synthetic), Ethylene Brassylate, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl salicylate.
The remake adds two preservatives (benzyl benzoate and benzyl salicylate) that the original did not need because the Galaxolide 50 acted as a stabilizer. The oakmoss has moved from second position on the ingredient list to fifth, indicating a significant reduction in concentration. The Ethylene Brassylate is listed after the ambergris, suggesting a lower concentration than the Galaxolide 50 in the original.
These are not minor adjustments. They are the difference between a dark, brooding fragrance and a lighter, more accessible one.
How Collectors and Practitioners Use Each
The occult community has adopted both versions for different purposes.
The original Baroque is used in shadow work and ancestor veneration. Its deep, almost oppressive darkness is said to create a barrier between the wearer and the mundane world. Several practitioners we know reserve it for Samhain rituals, applying it only when the veil is considered thinnest. The oakmoss note is described as “the smell of the earth opening.”
The remake is used for daily practice and meditation. Its lighter profile makes it suitable for daytime work, and the warmer musk is considered more grounding than the original’s metallic edge. Some practitioners blend it with frankincense resin or copal for added depth.
We have seen both used in the same ritual space: the original on the altar, the remake on the body. The contrast between the two creates a layered scent environment that mirrors the layered nature of the work itself.
The Economics of the Two Versions
The original sold for 45 dollars in 2006. Adjusted for inflation, that is approximately 68 dollars in 2024. The remake launched at 85 dollars and now sells for 95 dollars.
Secondary market prices tell a different story. An original bottle in good condition (with the original label and box) sold at auction in 2023 for 1,200 dollars. A bottle without the box sold for 850 dollars in early 2024. The remake has not appreciated significantly: sealed bottles sell for 100 to 130 dollars on secondary markets.
The difference is not just rarity. The original has become a historical artifact of a regulatory moment. It represents the last generation of fragrances made with unrestricted oakmoss. The remake represents the first generation of fragrances made under the new restrictions.
What People Get Wrong About the Two
The most common misconception is that the remake is a watered-down version of the original. It is not. It is a different composition that uses different materials to achieve a similar effect. The original was not “stronger” in any meaningful sense. It was different.
Another misconception is that the original was discontinued because of the oakmoss regulation alone. The regulation was a factor, but the perfumer has stated that they discontinued the original primarily because they were tired of making it. The regulation provided a convenient excuse.
A third misconception is that the remake is inferior. This is a matter of taste, not fact. The remake is more wearable for most people. The original was challenging even for experienced fragrance users. The remake’s lighter profile makes it accessible to a wider audience.
FAQ
Is the remake a reformulation or a new fragrance? It is a reformulation that uses different materials to achieve a similar effect. The perfumer calls it a translation.
Can you still buy the original Baroque? Only on secondary markets. Prices range from 800 to 1,200 dollars for a sealed bottle.
Why did the oakmoss concentration change? EU Regulation EC No 1223/2009 restricted the use of oakmoss absolute in cosmetics due to allergenic compounds. The remake uses a reduced concentration to comply with current regulations.
Which version should a practitioner choose? The original for ritual work and deep meditation. The remake for daily practice and grounding work.
The Baroque original and its remake are not competitors. They are two documents from different moments in perfumery history, each constrained by the materials and regulations of its time. The original is a relic of a regulatory era that ended in 2010. The remake is a living practice that adapts to what is available. Both have their place. The question is not which is better. The question is which serves the work.
For more on the intersection of fragrance and ritual, see our guide to scent in occult practice. For a deeper look at the materials themselves, visit the glossary of resinous ingredients. And for the full context of how aesthetics shape practice, explore the aesthetics hub.